However our diving trip is not canceled. Moreover, our gear has arrived and we are more than ready. We get on a boat and head towards Esmeralda. It is on the other side of the reef and the waves are much bigger. We ride up and down like on a roller-coaster. We quickly gear up and go down. This is a much better dive. At 60ft nurse sharks come, our dive-master brought lunch for them. We pet them, ride on them and pull their fins. Given a few pieces of fish they get for it they take a lot of tourist abuse.
When the food is gone, we head out. There is a deep canyon at the bottom and since I am allowed to go to 80ft I check it out. I am sure Kasia is jealous but it is irresistible. It is beautiful scenery with a lot to see but I mostly float and enjoy being there. Sharks are following us but we have no more food.
Second dive is a straight path at 50ft. The bottom varies and there are nice coral reefs and lots of smaller fish. Kasia is certified as a diver and I am already thinking of blue holes and other underwater attractions that I might lure her into.
For dinner we head to San Pedro. The restaurant is called Victoria House and it is recommended in the guide. We make a reservation and when we arrive in a water taxi a car is waiting to take us there. It is a very classy place and the food is excellent. I am having a whole snapper made in a local fashion.
On the way back it is raining and the weather is deteriorating quickly.
Next morning the beach is no longer visible, everything is underwater. We find out that all boats to Belize City are canceled. Hotel people are inquiring whether we really want to go under such conditions. Since we put-off packing till now, we are actually quite busy. There is quite a bit of stress, and each of us have different ways of dealing with it. Kasia smokes, Joanna drinks, Ola makes sure that her make-up and hairdo are up to snuff, and I piss off everybody around. When the boat comes the conditions are making your blood-pressure to go up. It is windy, slippery and waves are making a lot of noise. We start and in seconds we are soaking wet. It is quite exciting, finally vacations are on track, at least according to my taste. We arrive at the airport in San Pedro, the plane is quite small and the flight is very exciting. It is low altitude so the view is great as well. It is less scary though that I had hoped for.
In Belize there is more excitement, it is possible that our flights are canceled. We already paid over $600 to change our tickets - a charge that I am planning to contest, so a possibility of more financial bleed is less welcome. "Jesus is the Lord" is a friendly shelter next to the airport where you can wait for your flight for days and perhaps get reprogrammed as well. While we map these possibilities, quarrel and stress out, again everything turns out ok. Furthermore, even though Matthew decided to sow destruction in Nicaragua our decision to leave early was correct. Ambergis Caye shuts down immediately after our departure and we are led to believe that Sunday departure would not have been possible. Overall, excellent adventure.
Sunday, September 26, 2010
Belize day 2
Kasia arrives and we are all together - three generations. Last time I was in such setting was with my mom and grandma and I was a rebel then. Apparently, I did not evolve much since and I feel that I exasperate my companions once a while. Perhaps a month of training in FEI (Federal Executive Institute) would make me more sensitive.
Anyway, Belize is a very interesting place. In one respect it is exactly like US - everything costs as much as in Washington. It is a bit surprising at first but we quickly adapt. It is quite amazing though, all neighboring countries are poor so I cannot imagine Belize exporting anything there. Perhaps citizen pay negative tax ala Alaska or there is some other scheme.
The first day of diving and snorkeling is very nice. Diving is very basic, it is Kasia's training course. Instead of a second dive I join snorklers. We swim with nurse sharks which are 5-6 feet long and look very pleasant. Amazing stuff...
In the afternoon we rent bikes and go with Kasia to town. She insists on back roads and such. As we would in the US, we discover that there are actually poor people living here. We buy a bottle of hot sauce, and the bottle is wrapped in an old newspaper. It lists local crimes and felonies, and other life's miseries.
We awake next morning and things are not looking good. It is rainy, windy and we quickly find out that hurricane Matthew is heading our way. The maps shows that the center will be above Belize on Sunday - the day of departure. The last two dives are postponed (because of the weather until noon) and in all likelihood they will be canceled. We have a family meeting and decide to head back a day earlier. I am very unhappy and I generously share my pain with others. This is the low point.
Anyway, Belize is a very interesting place. In one respect it is exactly like US - everything costs as much as in Washington. It is a bit surprising at first but we quickly adapt. It is quite amazing though, all neighboring countries are poor so I cannot imagine Belize exporting anything there. Perhaps citizen pay negative tax ala Alaska or there is some other scheme.
The first day of diving and snorkeling is very nice. Diving is very basic, it is Kasia's training course. Instead of a second dive I join snorklers. We swim with nurse sharks which are 5-6 feet long and look very pleasant. Amazing stuff...
In the afternoon we rent bikes and go with Kasia to town. She insists on back roads and such. As we would in the US, we discover that there are actually poor people living here. We buy a bottle of hot sauce, and the bottle is wrapped in an old newspaper. It lists local crimes and felonies, and other life's miseries.
We awake next morning and things are not looking good. It is rainy, windy and we quickly find out that hurricane Matthew is heading our way. The maps shows that the center will be above Belize on Sunday - the day of departure. The last two dives are postponed (because of the weather until noon) and in all likelihood they will be canceled. We have a family meeting and decide to head back a day earlier. I am very unhappy and I generously share my pain with others. This is the low point.
Wednesday, September 22, 2010
Belize day 1
Yesterday we arrived in Belize. Two flights plus two water taxi rides. The island we are on -Ambergis Kaye - is one dimensional. The road inside is not viewed as a reasonable way to travel and water taxis is a preferred mode. It is kind of fun although tad expensive.
This is low season and there are very few people around. Our resort which can accommodate hundreds of tourists has only six or seven of them. This reminds me a bit of Shining - All work and no play makes Jack a dull boy. I became an exercise fiend and hopefully this will keep me busy. Additional side effect of the absence of people is acute lack of food. The alcohol is available in abundance but most of the restaurants are closed. Last night we ventured along the beach to a place called Capricorn - gourmet, fancy and seemingly abandoned. Upon return it turned out that the only place that is open is called Portofino, a short water taxi ride away. They even give you a round trip for free. Not exactly, after several phone calls the water taxi has materialized and ultimately took us there for $11 per face, more than double the usual price. However, the restaurant was fabulous, great seafood and very nice ambiance. The drinks - margaritas and rum punch - tied the meal together. Afterward, we were delivered back home; riding the boat under full moon completed the evening.
Overall things are excellent with the exception of a minor inconveniences. Our suitcase with diving equipment took a detour through Haiti and with some luck we will be reunited tomorrow.
We visited town today. Heat was miserable and we lost a sense of purpose a couple of times. Unfortunately I let my raw thoughts to surface one too many times and consequently spirits were rather low. Few shots of espresso and quite fancy jade jewelry put things on a mend. Additionally, I bought 20lb watermelon and two 1 gallon jugs of water (not available in the hotel!) as an extra penance. Carrying it around in 90 degree heat kept me quiet and focussed.
Kasia is poised to join us and tomorrow is a diving day. She reports from various points on the way and as I write she is on the Tropic Air flight to the island.
This is low season and there are very few people around. Our resort which can accommodate hundreds of tourists has only six or seven of them. This reminds me a bit of Shining - All work and no play makes Jack a dull boy. I became an exercise fiend and hopefully this will keep me busy. Additional side effect of the absence of people is acute lack of food. The alcohol is available in abundance but most of the restaurants are closed. Last night we ventured along the beach to a place called Capricorn - gourmet, fancy and seemingly abandoned. Upon return it turned out that the only place that is open is called Portofino, a short water taxi ride away. They even give you a round trip for free. Not exactly, after several phone calls the water taxi has materialized and ultimately took us there for $11 per face, more than double the usual price. However, the restaurant was fabulous, great seafood and very nice ambiance. The drinks - margaritas and rum punch - tied the meal together. Afterward, we were delivered back home; riding the boat under full moon completed the evening.
Overall things are excellent with the exception of a minor inconveniences. Our suitcase with diving equipment took a detour through Haiti and with some luck we will be reunited tomorrow.
We visited town today. Heat was miserable and we lost a sense of purpose a couple of times. Unfortunately I let my raw thoughts to surface one too many times and consequently spirits were rather low. Few shots of espresso and quite fancy jade jewelry put things on a mend. Additionally, I bought 20lb watermelon and two 1 gallon jugs of water (not available in the hotel!) as an extra penance. Carrying it around in 90 degree heat kept me quiet and focussed.
Kasia is poised to join us and tomorrow is a diving day. She reports from various points on the way and as I write she is on the Tropic Air flight to the island.
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